"At one of the last old-school chicken joints in New York City, there is no sous-vide machine, no battery of line cooks, no farm-raised birds, no special oil. There’s just Gabriel, a few people who help out, his pans, the recipe that he took from his mother, and his devotion to a technique that, by all scientific measures, is sketchy."
Sophie Brickman visits Charles Gabriel, the fried-chicken king of Harlem.
Red Rooster’s Marcus Samuelsson (left) and Charles Gabriel, the owner of Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken. Photograph by Joshua Bright/The New York Times/Redux